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Animal pests |  |
HELP! We have leaf miners in our birch tree. I think the damage has been done too this late in the game/season, but is there anything I can do to help and to prevent the return year after year? The leaves are already mined out and the tree seems to be okay, but it looks awful. There are a few untouched leaves and then mined leaves are still on the tree. What do you suggest? Holly, Lexington |  | Hi, Holly: The birch leaf miner, Fenusa pusilla, is a sawfly that can be very destructive to susceptible birch trees. These insects are native to Europe but very well established here in the states, specifically the northeastern states. Understanding their life cycle is important in terms of control. During the winter months they survive as pupas a couple of inches below the soil wrapped in a cocoon. When spring arrives the small black fly-like adults emerge from the soil, mate, and the female lays her eggs inside the new foliage. The eggs hatch anywhere from seven to 10 days and the larvae begin to feed. At this time the small, white, flattened larvae are visible within the foliage. They feed for approximately two to three weeks and then, cutting holes in the leaves, they drop to the ground and the cycle continues. There are two generations per year but the first generation causes the most damage because it attacks the new, tender spring growth. The second generation emerges later in the summer. There are a couple effective means of control when it comes to leaf miners, the first being a foliar spray such as Sevin. This is feasible for smaller trees and should be applied around the first of May and then again 10-14 days later. To control the second generation spray again at the beginning of July. If the tree is larger a granular/liquid systemic is going to be the most effective means of control. Systemics works internally through the root system of the tree. It will take a bit longer to work as opposed to the foliar sprays because it takes time for the chemical to be absorbed up through the root system and into the foliage of the tree. Systemics should be applied late April and then again late June. Good cultural practices are important as well; make sure all fallen plant debris is removed from the area. It can take a couple of years and several applications to get this under control. |
| | As the owner of a house in Butler County, I am concerned about the giant numbers of ladybugs in my garden and on my house. Why are there so many? They sometimes cover the house outside and even get in the house. Are they harmful? How do I decrease their numbers? Kirk, Morgantown | | Hi, Kirk: It sounds like you are dealing with an infestation of Asian lady beetles (Harmonia axyridis). These beetles, commonly known as ladybugs, are not necessarily harmful but in large numbers can be a nuisance. They were introduced from Asia to feed on unwanted insects and more were brought over unintentionally. No matter how they got here, they are beneficial in terms of controlling destructive insects, but overwhelming in large numbers. They cannot survive our winters, so during the fall they start searching for somewhere warm to stay for a few months. Sealing your windows, doorframes, and other spaces they can enter will help the situation. It may take a couple seasons, but if there is nowhere for them to survive they cannot reproduce, therefore reducing the population. They typically live two to three years. When these beetles feel threatened, they will secrete a foul-smelling yellowish liquid, so swatting them may not be the best idea. A vacuum is recommended for getting rid of them indoors. You might consider hiring a professional if you feel they are a real problem. The following site is a publication from the entomology department at the University of Kentucky: www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef416.asp |
| | Could you please tell me all the plants, if any, that will grow in this region to repel mosquitoes? Bonnye, Franklin | | Hello, Bonnye: Mosquitoes are the one thing that can keep me out of the garden! In high season there really is nothing worse than stepping outside and getting attacked by these insects. There are a few plants that can help repel them. Unfortunately, just planting them is not usually enough to keep them away. In most cases we have to take the foliage from these plants and crush it or infuse it into an oil to apply to the skin to make any difference at all. Even this is not a sure-fire method. You can take sprigs of lavender and/or rosemary and smudge yourself with it. A lot of herbs have this aromatic characteristic that seems to help deter them. Peppermint, lemon balm, and eucalyptus are all good options. Citronella is the most common mosquito repellent. Both citronella grass and citronella-scented geraniums are used in natural-based repellents that are sold in spray forms. All of these plants are tropicals for us so we have to plant them outdoors after our frost-free date passes (May 10). Making sure that we are not creating breeding areas for them is essential in terms of keeping their numbers down. Be aware of any standing water in which they can breed, and avoid gardening during dusk and dawn, which are their most active times of the day. Other than adding bat houses to the garden and wearing protective clothing, there is little we can do about these insects. If you want to read more information about mosquitoes in Kentucky, visit www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef005.asp. |
| | Could you tell me if you know of anything that will keep feral cats from using my gardens for their waste? Also, could you tell me how to prevent maple trees from producing seeds? Bev, Napanee | | Hi, Bev in Canada: Cats that are using your garden as a bathroom can certainly be frustrating. Once a cat marks its spot it can be difficult to deter other cats from doing the same. Over time, cat urine can actually alter the pH of the soil and damage plant material. Fortunately, there are options that do not include constructing a fence. There are many nontoxic products available that are made specifically for repelling cats. Liquid Fence makes one that is made of natural plant oils such as citronella and cinnamon oils. It is environmentally safe and is not harmful to the cats, they just do not like the smell. These kinds of products will have to be re-applied every few months. Otherwise, adding layers of pine cones around the shrubs or anything else that is not nice to walk on might also help deter these feral cats. As for the maples, this is a natural part of the tree's life cycle, and short of removing the actual tree we have to deal with these pesky winged seeds sometimes referred to as helicopters. There are growth regulators that can be applied at time of bloom, but most certified arborists do not recommend using these products. I sympathize with your frustration, having just come in from the garden after spending a better part of the day picking up and pulling the ones that have already taken root. For the seedlings that have already sprouted, you have a couple of options. First, you can hand pull them if you are not dealing with a large space, but if this is not feasible you can spot spray with any product labeled with Triclopyr as its active ingredient. Triclopyr is a nonorganic, selective herbicide you can spray without harming your grass. It is effective on woody plants and herbaceous weeds. It is usually available in granular and liquid form. Spot spray the foliage and you will notice the decline of the seedling in a few days. As with any chemical, be sure to follow all application instructions. |
| | Do the bulbs of daffodils keep moles and other rodents from plant roots? If so, how far apart and how deep should they be planted? If this does not work, what can you recommend (that works) to keep them from destroying the plant roots? Carolyn, Sonora | | Hello, Carolyn: It is true that some plants are more resistant than others when it comes to critter damage, but this is not necessarily true for the roots of plants. It sounds like you are having more of an issue with the roots being disturbed as opposed to the foliage. Daffodil bulbs will not prevent root damage to other plants. Identifying the culprit is going to be the first step in solving the problem. I would suspect you are dealing with either voles or moles. Are the roots of your plants actually being nibbled on or just uplifted from where the tunnels are made? The following is some basic information on moles and voles that might help decipher what you are dealing with. Moles are rarely seen because they live their entire lives underground. They create a network of tunnels that are both shallow and deep, depending on the moisture and temperature of the soil. These solitary animals travel in constant search of food. They feed on earthworms, insects, and grubs. Trapping them is the best way to eliminate them from your property. The good news is that if the culprits you are dealing with truly are moles, they are not going to be abundant in numbers. Usually there are only three to five per acre. Set your traps only where you know the tunnels are currently being used. To find out where the active tunnels are, walk on the raised surface and watch for the next 24 hours for it to be disturbed. Traps are much easier to use on surface tunnels/burrows, and this time of year they are living closer to the surface so trapping them now will help keep population numbers down. As for voles, there are a couple different kinds, but the pine vole is usually the culprit of underground damage. Of course, I cannot say for sure but from what you have described these small mammals are a possibility, especially if you are pulling up plants and the roots have been eaten or if the bark has actual teeth marks. These critters are only 4-5 inches long at maturity but can do some serious damage to plant material. They usually live in loose soil as this makes it easier for them to dig their tunnels. These tunnels can be a foot deep and contain many adult and young voles. These rodents do not venture very far so it would be feasible to trap them depending on the space you are dealing with. Active tunnels can be identified the same way as described for moles. |
| | How can I deal with Japanese beetles destruction on my roses? Bug dust doesn't really help. Jennifer, Garrison | | Hi, Jennifer: Japanese beetles can be a real nuisance and make our plants look skeletonized and in severe cases can completely defoliate a rose. These pests feed on more than 300 species of plants but roses seem to be one of their favorites. Understanding their life cycle is helpful in terms of control. Adult females stop feeding midday and burrow a few inches deep to lay their eggs. These eggs eventually turn into grubs and for the next 10 months they feed on grass roots, and then pupate into the unmistakable adult beetle that emerges in late June and feeds for about four to six weeks, dying soon after. The adult beetles only live for 30-45 days. Adult beetles tend to feed in large groups, making the damage more noticeable and unsightly. Controlling them in the grub stage can be tricky because we do not always know where they are living. A good indication would be areas of dead turf, and in this case a soil insecticide used at the proper time can be effective. It is obviously easier to control them as adults because we can see them. Hand picking is very effective and environmentally friendly. Grab a bucket of soapy water and go out in the early morning when they are not very active and literally hand pick them off your rose and dump them into your bucket. There is actually something very satisfying about this although it may not be feasible with large infestations, but certainly doable with a few roses. Other options include insecticides with the main ingredients being pyrethroid or carbaryl. Both are effective if used properly and as product instructions indicate. Timing is everything in controlling these beetles and these products will need to be applied more than once. Neem is a botanical option that will last for a few days and then will need to be reapplied, but is safe for bees and other beneficial insects. Adult beetles are attracted to plants that are already infested, so reducing numbers is a good way to deter other from flying in. Protecting your rose with cheesecloth is another option during the four to six weeks when the beetles are most active. Unfortunately these beetles are here to stay but it does not mean we have to stop planting roses. Avoid using beetle traps since these products only encourage them to enter your garden. |
| | How can I get rid of crawdads in my yard? Lynn, Pinevill | | Hello, Lynn: In this country there are several species of crayfish, commonly referred to as crawdads or crawfish. They are freshwater crustaceans that feed on decaying material. They can be very unsightly in our gardens. It is unusual to find them where there is no water source. They dig/burrow near streams, ponds, and banks, creating chimneys in the lawn and landscape. Do you have a stream or creek on your property? They need the right environment to survive in and if you do have a water source on your property, it is going to be a task to get rid of them. Eliminating them from the garden can be difficult since there is no general purpose pesticide for crayfish control. Trapping them is one option. Fish, chicken, and other meats are used for baiting. They are an important part of the food chain but can be a nuisance if they are leaving holes/piles in your yard. They do make great bait for fishing--just watch out for their pinchers! |
| | How do I get rid of fuzzy white stuff on my pyracantha bush? Fran, Merced | | Hello, Fran: All plant material is more susceptible to insect and disease problems when they are not planted in an ideal location. Pyracantha, commonly known as firethorn, belongs to the Rosaceae (Rose) family. They should be planted in a space where they will receive good air circulation and a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight. The first step to a healthier plant is to have the problem diagnosed. I cannot say for certain without being able to see your pyracantha so you should take a sample to a reputable garden center with a knowledgeable staff or to your County Extension Service. Pyracantha is prone to a few different disease and insect problems, but from what you have described it sounds like you might be dealing with wooly apple aphid. The aphids themselves are purplish-brown but they cover themselves in a mass of waxy, white threads. Have you noticed any galls on the bark or a sticky substance that might be attracting ants? If so, an insecticidal soap will help but you should have it looked at before you spray anything on your pyracantha. For now make sure the base of the plant is free of plant debris and remove any severely infected foliage. |
| | How do I get rid of whiteflies? Sue, Jupiter | | Hello, Sue in Florida: There are many different species of whiteflies and within each species there is a wide range of host plants that these sap-sucking insects attack. They all thrive in warm environments and excrete honeydew as they feed that leaves the foliage sticky and can attract ants. Whiteflies do have a few natural enemies such as lacewings but control can be difficult in extreme numbers. Indoors they will not likely have any natural enemies to help reduce the population so you are left with other options. Sticky traps are effective in controlling whiteflies as the adults are attracted to the traps; they eventually die and are not able to reproduce. The idea here is to eliminate as many as possible to stop the cycle. It will take a while as you may have many generations and they have to reach the adult stage before the sticky traps will work. Wiping or spraying down the underside of the foliage will also help reduce the numbers. Lastly, insecticidal soaps and oils are an option but are only effective if sprayed on the nymphs and these can potentially kill natural enemies. As with all products, make sure to follow recommended application rates. Once a plant has whiteflies it can be an ongoing battle to eliminate them completely but keeping the numbers down will help keep your plant healthy. If there are leaves that look unsightly or have a large number of whiteflies living on them you can go ahead and remove/dispose of them. |
| | How do I keep rabbits from eating my lilies??? Does dog hair really work? My lilies are starting to come up and I do not want these rabbits chomping on them. Carrie, Maumee | | Hello, Carrie: I cannot confirm or deny the use of dog hair to deter rabbits in the garden. There are many so-called remedies that are supposed to keep rabbits from munching on our plants. Essentially they make the rabbits think there is a predator in the area, or the foul smell of some products makes the rabbits turn the other way and look for food elsewhere. In my experience, the same deterents work for some gardeners and do not for others. It cannot hurt to try the dog hair and hopefully it will work. If it does not, visit your garden center and purchase either blood meal or a liquid spray specifically for repelling rabbits. Use these products as an invisible fence around your lilies and any other plants they like to feed on. Unfortunately, there is no foolproof remedy. Any product we use we have to continue to apply monthly or more often after a heavy rain. If nothing else works, a small fence around your lilies will certainly keep them at bay. It only needs to be 2-3 feet tall but burying it 6-12 inches will keep them from digging their way into the garden. Rabbits are creatures of habit and when they find a food source they will continue to come back for their next meal, so we have to make them think there is nothing good to eat in our gardens. |
| | How do I stop bugs or caterpillars from eating holes in my tomato plants? Shelly, Dana Point | | Hello, Shelly: As with any plant material, it is important to plant them in ideal growing conditions. Tomatoes are more likely to have insect problems when they are not given adequate sunlight, moisture, and/or nutrients. This being said, there are insects that are specific to tomatoes and can be controlled after they have been identified. Caterpillars can be safely controlled using BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) if used at an early stage. Insecticidal soaps/oils are organic controls for most insects, but I cannot give you specifics not knowing what the insects you are dealing with. You can take a sample to your Extension Service or to a reliable garden center. For now, remove any foliage that is damaged, and keep the area free of plant debris since this provides a nice home for additional insects to live.
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| | How do we keep potato bugs off our potatoes? We have tried lots of products but still don't have any luck--please help! Glenda, Somerset | | Hello, Glenda: The first step in controlling these insects is to have them positively identified. Control methods differ between insects, and understanding their life cycle is important in reducing population numbers. There are several insects that can commonly be referred to as potato bugs. There are different beetles as well as leafhoppers, just to name a couple of possibilities. Taking a sample of the insect to your County Cooperative Extension office for identification should be your first action in managing the problem. Good cultural practices will also be beneficial in reducing the population. In most cases, these insects will over-winter in plant debris, so proper cleanup is important in terms of next year's growing season. As with anything we plant in the garden, it is always best to give them the best growing conditions possible; otherwise, they are more susceptible to insect and disease problems. Potatoes should be grown in an area where they will receive at least six hours of sunlight each day. They require well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0-6.5. Potatoes are considered heavy feeders, so adding compost to the soil will be beneficial to your potatoes. The Pulaski County offices are located at 28 Parkway Drive in Somerset. The phone number is (606) 679-6361. The agriculture/horticulture agent will be able to identify the insect and give you advice on pest management. |
| | I am a brand new gardener. I have gotten myself way in over my head by trying my hand at a gardenia tree (a very small one). At first everything was fine, I read up on them and used the right soil and made sure to keep it watered properly, but it all went downhill so fast. I noticed two days ago the buds wilting a bit and the leaves turning yellow. Now that I look closely at the "trunk' where the soil meets, I've noticed these little (very little) whitish bugs crawling all over, in and out of the soil. Now the whole tree is getting "crunchy.'" Can I save this poor little gardenia?
Nicole, Tinton Falls | | Hello, Nicole in New Jersey: Gardenias are a Southern favorite and a treat during the warmer months for those of us who cannot grow them year-round. The scent is intoxicating but these plants can be a bit finicky if not given ideal growing conditions, so do not be too hard on yourself! These plants are happiest growing in nutrient-rich, acidic soil that is consistently moist. They prefer to grow in full sun to part shade and benefit from a monthly feeding of 20-20-20. Gardenias are susceptible to several different insects, including thrips, which affect the flowers, whiteflies, and mealybugs. Not being able to see your plant I cannot say which insect is the culprit so it is important to have the bugs on your plant positively identified. You can take a sample to a local garden center with a horticulturist on staff or to your County Cooperative Extension Service to have the horticulture agent take a look. Gardenias are sensitive to horticultural oils and soaps so identifying the problem is essential for control purposes. |
| | I am having trouble with rabbits. They are eating everything. Any suggestions? Marlene, Villa Hills | | Hi, Marlene: Rabbits can be a real nuisance in the garden. They can make a big dent in plant material, and unfortunately once they find a food source the harder it is going to be to get rid of them. I have heard so many gardeners say that the rabbits do not touch certain plants, but others say that this certain plant is the only one they will eat in their garden. So there are no foolproof rabbit-resistant plants. It really depends on how hungry they are and what is available for them to eat. There are several deterrents on the market and are effective if used consistently. Liquid Fence/Deer Off are both liquid products that are safe to use around pets, but they do not smell good so be careful to not get it on you when you spray. The smell is potent at first but will dissipate. Sprinkling bloodmeal around the perimeter of the plantings will work as a deterrent as well. Constructing a fence is also an option. It can be made out of chicken wire. It only needs to be 2 feet high and dug into the ground 4-6 inches. |
| | I am in desperate need of some help! I have a massive infestation of what I am pretty sure are predatory mites in my garden. They do not bother my plants at all, the only problem is that there are SO MANY of them that I almost hate to garden anymore because I come away absolutely CRAWLING with mites! I know they are beneficial for my garden but I'm sure there are billions too many. I hate to get rid of them all and have spider mites but is there any way I can decrease the population by say a couple of billion? Please help, this is my first year with a vegetable garden and I am frustrated and itchy!
Pam, Barrie | | Hello, Pam: The first thing to do would be to have this insect/mite positively identified. I assume that living in Canada you have something equivalent to a Cooperative Extension Service where you could take a sample and have it identified, but if not you could contact a local university with an entomology department. If you have a favorite garden center/nursery with a knowledgeable staff, they also may be able to help. It is hard to give specific advice not knowing what we are dealing with, especially when it comes to a vegetable garden. Are these pests just in the vegetable garden that you are aware of, or are they in other parts of the garden as well? There are organic insecticides/miticides available and predator mites can be used to control spider mites, but it really is best to figure out what you are dealing with before spraying anything. Since they do not seem to be harming your plants, spraying them will not get rid of the problem. I hope this does not discourage you from having a vegetable garden in the future!
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| | I found a mouse-like rodent at the top of my tomato plant eating a tomato. After researching, it is most likely a vole. What is the most effective way to deter the vole from eating my tomatoes? Vicki, Manassas | | Hello, Vicki in Virginia: Voles are mouse-like rodents that live most of their lives underground. They do, however, leave their tunnels during the day and at night to find food or materials for their underground nests. They typically feed on roots, tubers, and grasses but have been known to eat vegetables as well. They are poor climbers, but if they can get onto a low-hanging branch they can make their way farther up into the plant to find a food source. There are several species of voles and most are only 4-5 inches long at maturity, but can do some serious damage to plant material. They usually live in loose soil as this makes it easier for them to dig their tunnels. These tunnels can be a foot deep and contain many adult and young voles. They do not venture very far so it would be feasible to trap them depending on the space you are dealing with. This would be one means of control, but another would be to cover your tomato plant with wire or plastic netting that has a mesh size of 1/4 inch or less. You will need to bury the bottom edge a few inches to prevent them from digging and getting to your tomatoes from underground tunnels. There are also repellents on the market that are labeled for voles. Bonide makes one but you can call around to your local garden centers to see what products they carry. As with any repellent liquid or granular, it will have to be re-applied according to label recommendations. |
| | I have a cotton wood tree. On the stem of the leaf there is a nest looking thing growing with tiny white looking mites or spiders. How do I get rid of them? They are all over the leaves. Elizabeth, Ramona | | Hello, Elizabeth in California: It is difficult to give you a positive diagnosis without being able to see your tree, but from what you have described it sounds like your cottonwood tree (Populus fremontii) may be infected with aphids that form galls on the petiole. The petiole by definition is exactly what you have described as the stalk that connects the leaf to the stem. Fortunately, these insects do not typically harm the overall health of the tree but will cause premature leaf drop, and the aphids secrete a sticky substance known as honeydew that can be a nuisance but will not kill your tree. These insects are most populated during the late summer/early fall and can be controlled by spraying a dormant oil next spring before bud break. For now, you should make sure to clean up all fallen leaves to ensure they do not over-winter and attack your tree again next year. It is best to have a certified arborist come out and give you a positive diagnosis or you can always take a sample to your County Cooperative Extension Office to have the horticulture agent take a look. |
| | I have a few California birch seedling trees growing in a pot outside, here in Vegas; they sprout leaves, then something comes along and eats all the leaves, then the leaves grow back, and then they do it again. I am not sure if it is a certain kind of bug or the ants I've noticed all around and in the pot. Is there a way to stop these leaf-eating bugs/ants, something I can buy or something natural that I can find around my house? John, North Las Vegas | | Hello, John in Nevada: Is the foliage there one day and completely gone the next, or is this a gradual process starting off with little holes and after a few days there is little left of the leaves? Figuring out the culprit is the main objective at this point so you can treat accordingly. The ants may be living in the soil but typically do not feed or do much damage to the foliage. Have you noticed any other insect activity or anything unusual on your seedlings? If this is all happening overnight then you are dealing with a larger critter and a protective “cage” may be necessary to help prevent future nibbling. Chicken wire would work for this purpose. It is inexpensive and you can cut it to form a barrier between your plants and whatever the culprit may be. There are deterrents on the market made specifically for this purpose but are only effective on larger animals such as squirrels, rabbits, and deer. These organic products are available in both liquid and granular form. You can visit your local garden center to see what they carry, and make sure to follow the recommended application rates for the product you choose. If this is more of a gradual process, the culprit is going to be something much smaller and the deterrents will not make a difference. It really would be best for you to take a sample to your local garden center or to the horticulture agent at your local Extension office for the insect to be positively identified. This way you will know what you need to treat for. The good news at this point is that your seedlings are putting on new growth; they obviously are happy other than being chewed on, and once you figure out what is causing this and treat for it the seedlings should thrive.
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| | I have a mammoth fern in my sunroom. Recently it has started weeping a sticky substance that falls on the floor and windows. What is it and why has it started doing this? I have had this fern for six years. Dee, Lockbourne | | Hello, Dee in Ohio: From what you have described, it sounds like your fern has some insect issues. The fern itself is not producing this sticky substance, but instead the insect that is feeding on your plant is secreting honeydew. Many insects secrete honeydew as they feed on our plants, but aphids are the probably the most common. Soft scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies are also culprits. They are all plant-sucking insects that feed on the sap of the plants, and as a result excrete this sticky substance known as honeydew. It lands wherever it lands and sooty mold, a type of fungus, is a secondary problem that grows on the honeydew. For now it is important to have the insect positively identified. Look on the underneath part of the foliage, which is where you will find these insects. If the plant is not heavily infested, pruning or a steady stream of water might take care of the issue, but if the plant seems to have a lot of insects you may need to use a soap, oil, or systemic. You can take a sample to your local garden center to have the insect identified and then see what products they carry to manage the problem. |
| | I have a pin oak tree that has a nest of ants at the base. Will the ants kill the tree? George, Harrodsburg | | Hello, George: If your pin oak (Quercus palustris) is healthy and the ants are just living at the base and not crawling up into the canopy of the tree, you have nothing to worry about. If you notice the ants crawling up into the tree, it may be an indication that the tree has something else going on, such as an aphid infestation. Otherwise the only real concern would be if you were dealing with carpenter ants. These are much larger than your average ant but they typically are not ground nesters. They would be living within the wood and not at the base of your tree. Carpenter ants can do damage but it does not sound like this is what you are dealing with. Not that any gardener wants a garden full of ants, but they can actually be beneficial by creating better air circulation as well as drainage in our heavy clay soil. They do not feed on roots so you do not need to be concerned about them disturbing the root system of your oak tree. |
| | I have crawdads eating the roots of my tomato plants: how do I stop them? My plants are next to a small creek, and they do well there, but the crawdads like the roots. I thought about using bleach or moth balls down their holes. Jane, Grayson | | Hello Jane: It has been such a wet season so far and if you have grown tomatoes in this space before with no problem I would suspect that increased moisture levels are to be blamed. These freshwater crustaceans typically feed on decaying material. From my understanding they are scavengers when it comes to eating. Not to say that they would not be eating the roots on your tomatoes but if your plants still look good I would not be too concerned. If they are feeding on the roots in amounts that would be damaging to the tomatoes you would be see a decline in health of the actual plants. Since your tomatoes are growing so close to the water source it is going to be difficult to completely eliminate the problem. Do not use any bleach or any chemicals that can be harmful to the plants and/or the water source. There is no general-purpose pesticide for crayfish control. Trapping them is one option. Fish, chicken, and other meats are used for baiting. Have some friends over for a crawfish boil or use them as fishing bait. If this continues to be a problem you might consider moving your tomatoes to another location in the garden for future plantings. |
| | I have either squirrels or birds eating my hibiscus. This is my second plant. They eat it to the stub. I love the animals but love my hibiscus too! Rhonda, Scottsdale | | Hello, Rhonda: Deterring animals in the garden can be a challenge and now that they know where to come for dinner, it will be an ongoing problem unless they are discouraged and look elsewhere for food. I would not suspect birds to be the culprit. Certainly a squirrel or possibly a rabbit or deer would be more likely since they have left nothing but the stem. You are gardening in a different part of the country than I am, so you may want to check with your local garden center to see if there are other animals that may be to blame. Ideally it would be best if you knew what was snacking on your hibiscus because there are repellents made specifically for certain animals, although this may be more of a marketing gimmick since they all seem to have the same ingredients. Most of them are made of all-natural ingredients such as garlic, citronella oil, and rosemary. Some are made with the urine of predatory animals. These products are available in both liquid and granular forms and do not smell good when you apply them, but the scent will dissipate to the human nose. Blood meal can also be used as a repellent. All of these options will need to be reapplied every month or so and after a heavy rain. If nothing else works, a small fence/cage around your hibiscus will certainly keep them at bay. It only needs to be 2-3 feet tall but burying it 6-12 inches will keep them from digging their way into the garden. Unfortunately, there is no foolproof remedy; some gardeners swear by certain products and others say it does not work for them, so finding out what works for you may involve some trial and error. If you are growing hardy hibiscus, do not remove the plants because if the roots are healthy they should recover and put on new growth. |
| | I have four established boxwood bushes in the front of my house. I noticed yesterday a white sticky substance all over the four bushes. Today there are millions of red flying bugs. They were all over me before I got in the door. What are they and what do I use to get rid of them before they get to my garden? Becky, Lexington | | Hi, Becky: It is difficult to determine exactly what is going on with your boxwoods but from what you have described it sounds like you might be dealing with a couple of different insects. The white sticky substance could be a boxwood psyllid (Psylla buxi): as the nymphs hatch in the spring they produce a white substance that covers their bodies. At this stage they will feed on the new growth, causing the foliage to curl up and sometimes drop. As adults they will continue to feed on the boxwood and lay their eggs for next year’s generation. As for the red flying insects, this sounds like boxwood leafminer (Monarthropalpus flavus); the adults resemble orange gnats and are found this time of year. They are getting ready to lay their eggs so eliminating them now will drastically reduce next year’s population. Sevin is a foliar spray that will take care of both of these insects but before you spray, I cannot be certain this is the problem with your evergreens, so it is a good idea to take a sample to your County Cooperative Extension office for a proper diagnosis. You do not need to worry about these insects going from your boxwoods to the rest of your garden. Fortunately, insects are quite selective and do not jump from one plant to the next. |
| | I have gnats in my house plants: what do I do to get rid of them? Sheila, Hebron | | Hi, Shelia: Fungus gnats are more of a nuisance than anything. They will not harm humans or animals, but the larval stage of these gnats live in the soil of our plants and can damage the roots, so control is necessary to prevent plant stress. Good sanitation and drainage will help keep the numbers down. They like to lay their eggs in damp soil, so make sure the plants are not being overwatered and there is no standing water in the saucer. Sticky fly traps are a great way to eliminate these pests. You should be able to find these at your local garden center. They are exactly what they sound like. They are bright yellow and sticky and you can either lay them in the soil or just place them around the house and the gnats will find them. The flying adults are attracted to the color, and once they come into contact with the trap they will not be able to free themselves. This will prevent them from reproducing and stop the cycle. There may be many generations in one year but their life cycle is approximately one month long. Check and replace the traps once they are covered in these insects. |
| | I have little holes in all my hostas this year. Can you tell me what type of bug does this and what the remedy might be? Debbie, Louisivlle | | Hello, Debbie in Kentucky: When it comes to hostas, the most common pest problem are slugs. These two seem to go hand-in-hand and the damage of small, round holes is exactly what you have described. Slugs are nocturnal feeders so you will not find them on your perennials during the day. Control options include Diatomaceous Earth and Sluggo, which are both organic products you should be able to find at your local garden center. As with any product, be certain to follow recommended application rates. Home remedies include a shallow bowl of beer, and melons also work great. Leave the bowl of beer out at night while the slugs are feeding and in the morning you will find the culprits and be able to dispose of them. As for the melon, any kind will work; of course enjoy it first and then place the hollowed-out part face-down in the garden. Again, do this at night and the next morning you will have a melon full of slugs. If you start a control early next spring you should be able to deter these slimy culprits from feeding on your herbaceous perennials and the foliage will not be full of holes. |
| | I have quite a few bag worms in pine trees on our property. I have larger ones from last season and new smaller ones when the worms came out late in the fall. I would like your suggestion on what to spray them with that is least harmful to birds and when to spray. I pick as many by hand that I can get to.
David, Berea | | Hello, David: Bagworm infestations can be devastating to pine trees if not controlled. Unfortunately, the means of doing this are more labor-intensive than spraying for them. The most effective method of control is hand-picking and then having a good stomp. Once they have formed their bags, anything you could spray would be ineffective. The bags themselves are very tightly woven and difficult to tear open. They are pretty safe in their protective homes. It is helpful to understand their life cycle in terms of control. There is only one generation per year, but there are several hundreds of eggs within each bag. The bagworms you saw this fall were the adult stage males. They were in search of females that remained in their bags. The grub form females leave their home after they have laid their eggs in the fall. They do not survive the winter but the eggs that over-wintered in the bag start to emerge in the spring. Usually this happens in May, but it all depends on Mother Nature so keep an eye out for them this time of year. This is the only time a spray would be effective, before they form their bags. For now you should keep removing all bags you can reach. When spring arrives and you want to spray something organic that is not harmful to birds, any product containing BT (Bacillus Thuringiensis) is a good option. Bonide makes a product Thuricide that is selective for caterpillars. You should be able to find this at your local garden center. If the pines are too tall for you to reach by spraying, you might hire a professional. |
| | I have quite a few euonymus bushes in my yard and almost all of them have small white insects (I believe) on the leaves. They are very thin (like hair) and only about 1/16" long. What are they and what do I need to use to get rid of them. Roy, Louisville | | Hello, Roy: You can bring a sample into the Plant Kingdom on Westport Road so we can look at it, but even without seeing it I feel confident that your euonymus has scale. This is such a common problem that when I hear scale I immediately think euonymus. They appear exactly as you have described and can really become a problem if not taken care of. Horticultural oil is effective but will likely take consecutive applications. Granular systemic would also be an option. This works internally through the root system of the plant. With extreme cases using both simultaneously is effective. Good air circulation will also help reduce the population. Prune out infested branches and this will not only remove some of the actual scale but will also allow for better air movement. These animals can overwinter so it is important to remove all plant litter from the area, otherwise it gives them ideal protection and they will multiply next season. For additional information on euonymus scale visit: www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef428.asp. This is available to home gardeners from our Kentucky Extension Service in collaboration with land grant universities.
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| | I have raised a vegetable garden in Dry Ridge since 1997. For the past two years I have had terrible success with corn and yellow beans. I plant four rows of each and might get two or three plants per row. I have noticed a large number of ants and wonder if they could be eating my seeds. I use 10-10-10 for my fertilzer. I planted 16 tomato plants last year and picked more than 1,000 nice tomatos. I do very well with cucumbers and several types of lettuce. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Frank, Dry Ridge | | Hello, Frank: Well, you are certainly not a novice vegetable gardener. 1,000 tomatoes! Now that is a bumper crop. I hope you are canning them so you can enjoy them year-round. As for your corn and bean seeds, it is possible that if you have several colonies of ants living in the garden they can certainly eat your vegetable seeds, and as a result you end up with only a few plants. Of course when gardeners plant seeds and only a few plants survive, my first thought is poor germination. This can be a caused by several different factors, including inadequate soil moisture or temperature as well as seed to soil contact. Planting older seeds or seeds that are not of the highest quality can also result in poor germination. Inadequate soil pH and nutrient levels are also a possibility. You can always have your soil tested through your county cooperative Extension service if you think this is a possibility, but since you have been growing these vegetables for a long time it does seem like there is something else going on besides the obvious. From what you mentioned it sounds like you are doing everything right in planting in several rows to ensure good pollination and using 10-10-10 is sufficient as a fertilizer. So, before planting your seeds next spring, after our frost-free date has passed, turn the soil and if the ants have not moved during the winter months you will need to get rid of them before sowing your seeds. Diatomaceous earth is a natural product made of fossilized diatoms (aquatic microfossils). When it is used in the garden the ants will crawl over it, puncturing the exoskeleton, killing the insect. You can use this now and again in the spring if necessary. You may want to take a sample of your ants to the Extension service so you know what type of ant you are dealing with. |
| | I have several houseplants and I've noticed the plants have gnats living in the soil. I have used two types of insecticide, which hasn't work. Should I repot all my plants? Sandra, Auburn | | Hi, Sandra in Kentucky: Fungus gnats are quite common but the good news is that they are more of a nuisance than they are harmful. When we bring our tropical plants indoors for the winter months the fungus gnats are carried in with the soil. There are many generations per year and the adults only live for seven to 10 days. As adults the females lay eggs by the hundreds into the moist soil, so eliminating them in the adult stage will stop the reproduction process. Sprays are effective only if they come into contact with the insect. The most effective means of getting rid of them is sticky fly traps. They are not very attractive but placing them on the soil or hanging them in that space will help keep the numbers down. The sticky traps are just that, stick traps, the gnats are attracted to the yellow color and once they touch the trap they are not able to break away. You will want to keep them up for a few weeks just to make sure that all the overlapping generations have reached the adult stage. Fungus gnats thrive in shaded moist soils. It is important that your containers have good drainage and the soil is never sopping wet. If your soil seems to be on the moist side, allowing it to dry out will kill them in the larval stage. It is a good idea to cut back on your watering during the winter months as the plants do not need as much moisture. Remove any plant debris that has fallen and replace traps as they become covered. It really is best to wait until spring to repot but if the sticky traps do not get the gnats under control you can change out the soil and that should take care of the problem. Even if you change out the soil still use the sticky traps to catch the flying adults that may want to lay eggs in the new soil.
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| | I have small green worms on my hibiscus plant eating the leaves; what are they and what do I do to get rid of them? Mary, Whitley City | | Hello, Mary: Without seeing the actual culprit I cannot give you a specific answer, although from what you have described it sounds like it could be the larval stage of a few different insects. There are a few different insects that attack hibiscus but the most common problem associated with hibiscus is the Mallow sawfly (Atomacera decepta). In the larval stage they look like small green caterpillars with black heads. They are not technically a caterpillar so Bt is not effective but hand picking is an organic option for getting rid of these worms. Using a foliar spray such as Sevin is also an option although not organic. It really is best to have the insect identified before using any chemical spray just to make sure you are using a product that will be effective. The sawfly larvae feed on the underside of the foliage, leaving a lacy appearance. For a positive identification you can take a sample to a local garden center with a knowledgeable staff or to your County Cooperative Extension Service. Visit the McCreary County Web site at: //ces.ca.uky.edu/mccreary/
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Typically plants are more susceptible to insect and disease problems when they are not growing in optimal conditions. This stresses the plants out and the insects are a secondary problem. Make sure your hibiscus, either tropical or perennial, are growing where they are getting at least six hours of direct sunlight and plenty of moisture.
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| | I have something eating my sedum leaves and stems. Can you help?
Gale, Hebron | | Hello, Gale in Kentucky: It is always best to know what type of insect/animal you are dealing with before treating your plant. Different insects/animals require different products/avenues for treatment. For the most part sedums do not have many insect issues, but when plants become stressed or are not planted in optimal growing conditions they are more prone to problems. What does the damage look like? If there are actual bites on the plant or the plant has missing sections then you are dealing with a larger four-legged animal. According to a Missouri botanical garden, sedums are not favored by deer or rabbits but if they are hungry enough they will eat just about anything. Granular or liquid repellents should deter them. If the damage is more speckled then you should have someone take a look at a sample to identify the smaller insect. If your County Extension Office has an entomologist on staff this is your best bet, but the local garden centers should also have a horticulturist on staff that can help in terms of identification and treatment options. Slugs, mealybugs, aphids, and ants are all potential possibilities. Depending on what you are dealing with, treatment options include insecticidal soap or natural predators such as lady bugs if you have aphids. |
| | I have tried every thing in the book to get rid of moles. Any suggestions? William, Madisonville | | Hi, William: Are you certain it is moles you are dealing with? They can be destructive in the garden and in our lawns, but in some cases they are blamed for damage they have not caused. The good news is that if the culprits you are dealing with truly are moles, they are not going to be abundant in numbers. Usually there are only three to five per acre and only come together to breed. Depending on the size of land you are dealing with, it may be necessary to involve your neighbors as well. We very rarely see moles because they live their entire lives underground. They create a network of tunnels that are both shallow and deep, depending on the moisture and temperature of the soil. These solitary animals travel in constant search of food. They feed on earthworms, insects, and grubs. There are many home remedies for killing moles, but the most successful way of eliminating them from your property is trapping them. Set your traps only where you know the tunnels are currently being used, otherwise the chances of actually catching one is minimal. This time of year they should be feeding in shallow tunnels, so it is a good time to catch them. To find out where the active tunnels are, walk on the raised surface and watch for the next 24 hours for it to be disturbed. They are usually most active in the early morning and again in the early evening. For more specific information on different kinds of traps to eliminate moles here in Kentucky, visit www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/for/for42/for42.htm. |
| | I have tried growing gardenia trees for two years. I keep them on the back porch where they get afternoon indirect sun. My problem is the buds drop before opening and both got infested with a white insect that left webbing. I tried insect spray, but this did not help. Any suggestions? Mary, Crestwood | | Hi, Mary in Kentucky: Gardenias are grown for their scented flowers. Here in Kentucky, we consider them a tropical since they will not tolerate our winter weather. They can certainly be brought inside to over-winter but they do tend to be a bit temperamental. They require very specific growing conditions and are happiest growing in nutrient-rich, acidic soil that is well-drained yet consistently moist. They prefer to grow in warm, humid environments and may benefit from shade during the hot afternoon when living outdoors. Indoors, they should be given as much light as possible. Bud drop, although frustrating, is not uncommon among gardenias. There is no one specific reason for bud drop but more likely a combination of inconsistent moisture levels and changes in temperature or location. In general, gardenias do not bloom well when the temperatures get really hot. Finding the right balance can be a challenge. Gardenias are susceptible to several different insects; from the webbing you described I suspect you have spider mites. They are not actually an insect so this would explain why your insect spray did not work. It is always a good idea to have the problem identified before treating any plant. Gardenias are sensitive to horticultural oils and soaps so identifying the problem is essential for control purposes. As with any product make sure the plant you are about to treat is listed as safe on the product label. When plants are stressed it is common for them to become infested with different insects. You can take a sample to your local garden center or Extension service for a diagnosis. For now, wiping the foliage with a wet cloth (especially on the underside) will help remove some of the insects/mites. |
| | I have two cherry trees that are growing wonderfully. However, I have noticed that something is eating the leaves. Is there an organic product I can use to control this? Millie, Bakersfield | | Hi, Millie: We know that spring has arrived when the cherry trees bloom and begin to leaf out. This is the time of year when the insects that have over-wintered on plant debris are ready to start feeding. There are many organic products that will help with insect problems when used at the right time, but good sanitation practices will also help keep the populations down. Fall cleanup is important so that the insects have no shelter in fallen leaves or other plant material. As for the current insect feeding on your trees, it is hard to say not being able to see your trees. This time of year the most common problem is the tent caterpillar. They feed early in the morning and at night, so we will not see them during the day but look for the tent-like silk webs usually found in the crotch of the tree. The caterpillars are protected inside the tent, but if you can reach and destroy the web you will be ahead of the game in terms of control I cannot be certain that the tent caterpillars are the culprit, and it is important to know exactly what you are dealing with. Take a sample of the foliage to your County Cooperative Extension Service and have your horticulture/agriculture agent diagnose the problem for you. They will be able to give you organic control options. |
| | I have two houseplants, a peace lily and a dieffenbachia. I left them outside for about a day and i've recently noticed that the dieffenbachia has a lot of what seem to be baby mosquitoes. There are so many I had to take my plant out of my room. Now I've noticed the same with my peace lily, though not as many. How do I get rid of these mosquitoes? I dont want to throw my plants away. Stephanie, La Jolla | | Hello, Stephanie in California: So, first things first: we need to properly identify the insect that you are calling a mosquito. If these are truly mosquitoes they are not going to damage your plants but will be a nuisance to you. They may lay eggs in the damp soil but will not do damage to the root system or to the foliage on either of your houseplants. My guess without actually seeing these insects is that they are fungus gnats, which are very annoying but again do not do much damage to your plants other than lay their eggs in the soil. If this is the case then purchasing a package of sticky white fly traps will do the trick. You should be able to find these at any of your local garden centers. The idea here is to stop them from reproducing and by killing the adult gnats in the flying stage you are at least getting rid of one generation. This does not mean that there are not more that will hatch in the soil and eventually fly around, so leaving the traps out for a month or so should get rid of all generations. Otherwise you should try to collect one or more of the insects and take them to your favorite garden center to have a knowledgeable staff member identify them and give you suggestions in terms of eliminating them. If these insects are not on the actual foliage of your plants then they should be just fine. |
| | I just repotted some indoor house plants and took them in to my office. Two times now something has dug out the dirt. What could it be, and how can I stop it? This is really weird; I even have a candy dish on my desk and nothing is bothering it. Toni, Shrewsbury | | Hi, Toni in Pennsylvania: I agree, this is really weird! I have certainly heard of critters digging out plants in outdoor containers, but indoors this problem is usually associated with the family cat, so unless there is a cat in the office or a co-worker playing tricks on you, it sounds like there is some other culprit. You can try sprinkling black pepper or red pepper flakes on top of the soil. This usually works as a deterrent for squirrels, rabbits, and chipmunks outside so it is worth a shot. This animal might not be bothering your candy but you might consider putting some nuts in a bowl to see if they get eaten; if so, a trap should be your next step or a phone call to an animal control service. Too bad you can’t put up a hidden camera to see what goes on in your office after you leave. |
| | I planted some holly bushes last year and I noticed that the leaves have dark spots that turn yellow and fall off. My neighbor has two dogs that are frequently let out to use the bathroom on the lawn. What is causing the bushes to lose leaves? Should I be concerned about the dogs? Judy, Temple Hills | | Hello, Judy in Maryland: The dogs are not the issue here. From what you have described, it sounds like scale might be the problem. These soft-bodied insects feed on the foliage, leaving chlorotic (yellow) spots and black sooty mold is a secondary issue. The mold is not harmful but it does look bad. Leaf drop can occur with scale infestation. Scale are round and are found on the stems as well as the foliage. They are controlled with oils or systemics. For a positive identification you can take a sample of your hollies to your local garden center or your county Cooperative Extension Service. The horticulturist will be able to identify and give you control options. All plants are more susceptible to insect and disease issues when they are not planted in ideal growing conditions. Hollies (Ilex) are happiest planted in a space where they will receive a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight. Since they are still considered new plantings, make sure they receive sufficient moisture. It is best not to fertilize while the plants are stressed. |
| | I seem to have a large amount of cicadas in my back yard around my shed. I think they are killing my newly planted hostas and elephant ear plants. Why do you think they are drawn to the shed area and what can I do to get rid of them or at least save my plants? Allison, Louisville | | Hi, Allison: What do your hosta and elephant ears look like? Is there damage to the foliage? If the answer is yes, I would not blame the damage on the cicadas. During the larval stage they do eat tree sap, but this is done in the soil. Otherwise, they do not feed on the actual foliage. They can also damage twigs when the females lay their eggs into them. Locusts, on the other hand, are technically grasshoppers and they will feed on the foliage. Japanese beetles will also feed on our plants and make the leaves look like Swiss cheese. The good news is if the damage is just to the foliage, the roots on the hosta and elephant ear bulbs are healthy and will return next year with new growth. The elephant ear bulbs can be dug and stored during the winter months and planted next spring. Identifying the culprit is important in terms of control. You can always take samples to the Jefferson County Cooperative Extension Service, or if you want to, bring a sample of the plants and/or insect to The Plant Kingdom we would be happy to look at it for you. In most cases each plant has their own specific insect problems. It is not very common to find the same insect on different plants just because they are planted next to one another. We have noticed this year that the Japanese beetles have been feeding on plants that they normally do not touch, so there are always exceptions, but knowing exactly what you are dealing with will help determine the means of control. As for why these insects are attracted to your shed I can only speculate. Cicadas would be attracted to this area only if there are trees where they can live the majority of their lives among the roots. The annual cicadas are making their appearance now but the periodical cicadas are not expected this year. |
| | My Alberta spruce got hit with spider mites in spots. Is there a safe green spray to use to cover these brown areas with? Patricia, Pennington | | Hello, Patricia in New Jersey: Some plants are more prone to insect problems than others, and Alberta spruce are very susceptible to spider mites. As with any plant material they are more vulnerable to insect and disease issues when they are under stress. If your spruce is not given adequate moisture or sufficient sunlight this could be the reason for spider mite infestation. These mites feed on old growth in the spring and new growth the fall after it has hardened off. The damage from spring feeding does not usually appear until later in the summer while the mites are dormant. Severe infestations can cause foliage discoloration and needle drop. The foliage discoloration is caused by the mites sucking the fluids from the foliage, giving it a speckled appearance. Understanding the life cycle of these mites is important in terms of treatment. In the fall the adult females continue to feed and lay eggs on smaller branches and needles until the first hard frost. In the spring the eggs hatch and they begin to feed until summer arrives and the increased temperatures cause them to go dormant until the cooler temperatures return in the fall, and the cycle continues. Treatment of these mites is one of the more difficult to control as far as pests in the home landscape go, but if you can get the population under control before it becomes a severe infestation you will have more success in terms of treatment. Spraying these mites is going to be most effective while they are active. Putting your hose on a jet setting and spraying the branches a couple times a week during the spring and fall is a reasonable organic option. Otherwise horticultural oil and insecticidal soap are both labeled for use spider mites. Plant-based dormant oils can be used during the fall and early spring to kill the eggs and help suppress future populations. Insecticidal soaps are useful during the warmer months so this would be a good option for you at this point. Lady beetles and lacewings are both biological controls. |
| | My barn floor has been taken by groundhogs! Dog hair, as suggested in the March 2010 issue, does not incourage them to leave. Any ideas? John, Clay City | | Hi, John: Groundhogs (Marmota monax), as you know, can certainly be a nuisance and do significant damage to gardens as well as buildings. Groundhogs have very strong appendages and thick claws specifically for digging burrows. They create extensive burrows that can reach up to 45 feet in length and up to 5 feet in depth. When they decide to burrow under a building, it can modify the foundation and make it no longer structurally sound. These burrows typically have several exit holes from which to escape from predators. Groundhogs are normally solitary animals, although in some cases several animals have been known to live in the same burrow. This makes it tricky in terms of eliminating them from under your barn. It is going to be difficult to deter them since it seems they are pretty cozy in the home they have made under your barn. It would be a lot of work to move and apparently dog hair is not enough motivation. It may be necessary to contact animal control or to try trapping them yourself. Havahart makes a live no-kill trap that allows you to relocate them, but you should check with the Fish and Wildlife department for relocating suggestions. As mentioned in the Kentucky Living article, there are many organic deterrents available both in liquid and granular form to discourage these animals. It sounds like in your case they have already done significant damage and you may have to resort to trapping. |
| | My Kimberly Queen fern was beautiful when i brought it home. Now, several months later, it has mealy bugs and all the leaves have browned and died so I chopped everything off. What caused this and will it grow back? Kelly, Phoenix | | Hello, Kelly: Kimberly Queen ferns (Nephrolepis obliterata) are large upright sword ferns. These ferns can handle a lot more sun than other ferns can. In fact, they are happy to grow in full sun. They can become very large, reaching 3 feet tall and wide at maturity. These ferns are hardy to zone 9. According to the USDA plant hardiness zone map, it looks like this plant is considered hardy for you so I will assume your fern is planted in the ground and not in a container that you will bring in for the winter months. Typically when we see insects on plants, it means they are stressed to begin with for some reason and the insects are a secondary problem. Plants that are not happy are more susceptible to insect and disease problems. Insecticidal soap is an organic solution that will kill the mealy bugs. It is good that you removed the brown foliage. For now, spray your plant with the soap that you will be able to purchase at your local garden center. You can also use a granular systemic that is absorbed through the root system and works internally. The foliar spray works instantly and the systemic takes longer, but in severe cases using both will help save the plant. Make sure the fern is getting plenty of sunlight and moisture. These ferns do not like to completely dry out, so watch your moisture levels. It will take a few weeks for your fern to put on new growth so be patient, but hopefully it will once again look lush and beautiful.
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| | My roses look like they have some kind of disease, they have holes in the leaves and are not producing many roses. What can I do to help them get over this disease or whatever this is? Tammy, Vanceburg | | Hi, Tammy: It sounds like your roses are being eaten by a common pest known as rose slugs. There are several species, all belonging to the sawfly family, and in the larval stage they attach themselves to the underside of the foliage and feed until they have skeletonized the leaves. These insects are not a slug or a caterpillar, they just resemble one and depending on species they can have more than one generation per year. They are hard to see since they are typically the same color as the leaves and they are only found on the underside. The good news is that even though they can make your roses look bad early on, they usually do not affect the overall health of the plant. If the damage is not severe, you can remove the foliage that does not look good. If the damage is severe, other control methods include hand picking, which may be feasible if they are not in abundant numbers; otherwise, spraying with a horticultural oil is an organic option and Sevin is also effective although not organic. Make sure to follow product instructions and remember to spray the underside of the leaves. It may take a few applications depending on population numbers. Good cultural practices are always important in terms of keeping our plants healthy. Make sure to clean up all plant debris around your roses and prune properly for good air circulation. |
| | Something is eating the leaves on my Knock Out rose bushes. What is the best remedy? Ruth Ann, Columbia | | Hello, Ruth Ann: I cannot be certain what is eating the foliage of your roses without seeing a sample, but we have seen a lot of damage from the rose slug on Knock Out roses this year. They overwinter in the soil and emerge to start feeding early in May. They are tiny larvae that feed on the underside of the foliage. If you go out and look at the underside of the leaves you should see the culprits. They look like a caterpillar. Control depends on the amount of damage. If only some of the foliage is damaged you can remove it, and be sure to discard it so the insects are removed from the plant as well. If the damage is more severe you can use Sevin, a product that contains the chemical chlorpyrifos, which will kill these insects. You should be able to find this product at your local garden center. It is not an organic so be careful when spraying and follow application instructions. Sanitation is important in reducing the number of these insects. Be sure to remove all fallen foliage and other plant debris throughout the year. For a positive identification take a sample to your County Cooperative Extension Service or to your local garden center.
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| | Thank you for getting back to me about my birch seedling. It can't be any critter as the seedlings are only 1/2 inch high, and the leaves are no bigger than a pea. Yes, there are ants in and around the pot, and whatever is eating the leaves, it eats the whole leaf. John, North Las Vegas | | Hi, John in Nevada: The ants that are around your seedlings are not likely the culprits since they can’t digest solid food. They would have to carry it back to their nest to feed their young but it has to be regurgitated first. Ants prefer to feed on other insects such as caterpillars, spiders , bees, and flies. Ants, however, can be an indicator of aphids, which are small, soft-bodied insects that use their piercing-sucking mouth parts to feed on plant foliage. They secrete a substance called honeydew that the ants are attracted to. Although from the way you describe the foliage being completely chewed off this does not sound like an aphid problem either. Even though your seedlings are just one-half inch high a rabbit or other small critter could certainly be the culprit. Whatever is chewing on your seedlings has to have a larger mouth than an ant or aphid. For now, inspect your seedlings for insects and think about creating a protective barrier so when they put on new growth they cannot be chewed on anymore. |
| | Thank you for your response to my earlier question. I didn't explain my problem very well.
I have a river birch with a dead circle of grass at the tips of the branches. As the tree grows this circle gets bigger. Why is this happening? My tree is approximately 35 feet tall. The dead ring at the drip line is about 12" wide. The grass from this circle to the trunk of the tree is fine. Judy, Brandenburg | | Hello again, Judy: I misunderstood your question and I have to admit that I have never seen or heard of this happening so I do not have a definitive answer for you, but here are some thoughts. River birch can sometimes become infected by small soft-bodied insects known as aphids. These rice-sized insects like to feed on foliage, especially new growth. As they use their piercing-sucking mouth parts to drink sap they secrete a sticky substance known as honeydew. It is possible that this honeydew and secondary forming black sooty mold are dripping from the tree to the grass below, only coming into contact with the grass directly below the drip line of the tree, killing the grass. For a positive diagnosis you should take a sample of new growth foliage and the dead grass to your horticulture agent at your County Cooperative Extension office. If you cannot reach a sample of the new growth you can have a certified arborist come out and take a look. They will be able to tell you if there is insect damage on the foliage. The Extension service should be able to put you in contact with a certified arborist in your area. You can find more information about the Meade County offices at www.ca.uky.edu/county. |
| | The bearded iris in our church memorial garden bloom and grow well but have an infestation of borers. Besides trying to keep them free of dead leaves and debris, are Merit granules, by Bayer, an acceptable preventive treatment? And because iris rhizomes need sun, there is a pesky weed that springs up thickly where there is no mulch in the summer. What could we treat them with to prevent that? Sharon, Booneville | | Hello, Sharon: The most effective method of getting rid of borers in your iris is to dig them up and separate the infected rhizomes from the newer healthier ones. Dispose of the infected rhizomes and transplant the healthy ones. You may see a decrease in blooms this year only because there are fewer plants but they will spread quickly. Borers live in older plants so removing them will drastically reduce the population. Iris like to be divided every few years. They spread and become overcrowded, forcing them to compete for nutrients, and as a result we get fewer blooms. So if you have not divided them recently you have two reasons to start digging--this is the time of year to divide them. I am sure you could get help from some other members. It will be obvious which ones are infected. There will be entry and exit holes. Borers only feed in the larvae stage so removing them now before the temperatures rise and they hatch will be very beneficial. Imidacloprid is the active ingredient in Merit. This granular systemic is effective against borers if applied during the spring while the borers are in the larvae stage and feeding. This is not an organic product and is highly toxic to honey bees. This systemic pesticide should be used only as directed. As you know, keeping the iris garden free of plant debris is important for a healthy garden so continue to do so. As for the weeds, the best solution is hand pulling. The trick is to get as much of the root system as possible so it cannot continue to spread. If it is possible to mulch this area this would prove to be helpful as well.
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| | The rabbits have eaten my entire Asiatic lily garden, stripping all the leaves off the plants as well as munching the stems off. Will the lilies survive and come up next year? Tami, Coshocton | | Hello, Tami: Rabbits are very cute but when they eat our gardens it is easy to change our feelings for them. Asiatic lilies are a tasty treat for them and once they find a food source it will take significant effort to deter them from this buffet. The good news is that the lilies will return next year. Asiatic lilies are bulbs so as long as the rabbits have not dug up the actual bulb, which I doubt, they will put on new growth. The downfall is yes, of course, you did not get to enjoy your lilies but also that the foliage did not have much time to photosynthesize and collect the nutrients necessary for storing in the bulb during the winter months. This means you may need to consider feeding them in the late fall or early spring with a product such as Bulb-Tone. It may be that the new growth occurs this summer and if so try to protect it from the rabbits. There are many products on the market made specifically for deterring rabbits. Most of them are organic made of garlic and eggs, and some of urine of a predatory animal. They do not smell good but the scent dissipates to us after application but the rabbits will smell it for weeks. These products are available in both liquid and granular form and need to be reapplied after about a month or after a hard rainfall. Borders and fences are another option. If they cannot get to the food they will hop away and find something else it eat. The trick is to discourage them early in the season. |
| | There is an animal or pest that's cutting my plants and bulbs from under the ground. Can you tell me what it might be and what I can use to get rid of them? Christine, Nashua | | Hello, Christine: It sounds like you might be dealing with voles, not to be confused with moles, which feed on insect and earthworms. There are a couple different kinds of voles, but the pine vole is usually the culprit of underground damage. Of course, I cannot say for sure but from what you have described these small mammals are a possibility, especially if you are pulling up plants and the roots have been eaten or if the bark has actual teeth marks. These critters are only 4-5 inches long at maturity but can do some serious damage to plant material. They usually live in loose soil as this makes it easier for them to dig their tunnels. These tunnels can be a foot deep and contain many adult and young voles. These rodents do not venture very far so it would be feasible to trap them depending on the space you are dealing with. Identifying the culprit is the first step in solving the problem. The New Hampshire Extension Service has a publication available to home gardeners on voles you can read it at: extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource000875_Rep921.pdf
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| | We have 15-20 black and yellow garden spiders in our landscape at the front of the house. This seems like a large number in one area and they are getting quite large. I don't want to kill them, but they are beginning to freak me out a bit. Plus, I can't get into the landscaping to weed. Any advice? Elizabeth, Stamping Ground | | Hi, Elizabeth: A lot of us are freaked out by spiders, especially in large numbers! No need to fret over these harmless garden arachnids. Argiope aurantia is the scientific name for these yellow and black garden spiders. They are also commonly known as writing spiders or golden orb weavers. The good news is that despite their bright colors these spiders are not harmful to humans. In fact, they are quite beneficial in that they trap many not-so-favorable insects such as mosquitoes, aphids, and flies. The females are larger than the males, reaching an inch and a half at maturity. They will not bother you while you are weeding unless you disturb a web where the female has laid her eggs. This happens during the late summer so this may be a concern this time of the year. They are not poisonous but they can bite. One option would be to carefully move them to another space in the garden. They prefer a sunny location out of the direct wind. Otherwise, let them be and cover yourself with long sleeves and pants while you are weeding that area. |
| | We have a million crawdad holes in our yard, front and back. How can we get rid of them? Kristyna, Corbin | | Hello, Kristyna: In this country there are several species of crayfish, commonly referred to as crawdads or crawfish. They are freshwater crustaceans that feed on decaying material. They can be very unsightly in our gardens and lawns. It is unusual to find them where there is no water source. They dig/burrow near streams, ponds, and banks, creating chimneys in the lawn and landscape. Do you have a stream or creek on your property? They need the right environment to survive, and if you do have a water source on your property it is going to be a task to get rid of them. Eliminating them from the garden/lawn can be difficult since there is no general-purpose pesticide for crayfish control. Trapping them is one option. Fish, chicken, and other meats are used for baiting. They are an important part of the food chain but can be a nuisance if they are leaving holes/piles in your yard. They do make great bait for fishing! It sounds like you are dealing with a large number of these crustaceans and you should contact the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife. You can reach them at (800) 858-1549 or visit their Web site at www.fw.ky.gov/navigation.aspx?cid=200. They can give you specific information on trapping. |
| | We have ants in our bur oak tree. Do we need to worry and if so how do I get rid of the ants? Dennis & Judy, Minnesota | | Hello, Dennis and Judy in Minnesota: Typically when we see ants around the base of a tree there is no reason to be concerned, but you mentioned that you see them on your bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa) and this may be an indication of an underlying problem. Do you notice any unusual characteristics in terms of the foliage? If so, in addition to the ants crawling up into the tree, it may be an indication that the tree has something else going on, such as an aphid infestation. Aphids are soft-bodied insects that feed on plant material and secrete a sticky substance known as honeydew, which is what the ants are after. Your next step should be having a horticulturist take a look at a sample of the foliage on your tree. They will be able to tell you if there is an insect problem and give you treatment options. All insects have different controls so proper identification is important. Otherwise, the only real concern would be if you were dealing with carpenter ants. These are much larger than your average ant and they typically are not ground nesters but rather live within the actual wood. Carpenter ants can do damage so taking a sample of the ant to a horticulturist at your local garden center or your county Extension office would not be a bad idea. Not that any gardener wants a garden full of ants, but they can actually be beneficial by creating better air circulation as well as drainage in more compact soil. They do not feed on roots so you do not need to be concerned about them disturbing the root system of your oak tree. |
| | We have moles in our yard: how do we get rid of them? Dennis, Shepherdsville | | Hello, Dennis: Moles can be a nuisance in the garden and in our lawns. We rarely see moles because they live their entire lives underground. They create a network of tunnels that are both shallow and deep, depending on the moisture and temperature of the soil. These solitary animals travel in constant search of food. They feed on earthworms, insects, and grubs. Trapping them is the best way to eliminate them from your property. The good news is that if the culprits you are dealing with truly are moles, they are not going to be abundant in numbers. Usually there are only three to five per acre. Set your traps only where you know the tunnels are currently being used. To find out where the active tunnels are, walk on the raised surface and watch for the next 24 hours for it to be disturbed. Traps are much easier to use on surface tunnels/burrows, and this time of year they are living closer to the surface so trapping them now will help keep population numbers down. For more specific information on trapping moles here in Kentucky, visit www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/for/for42/for42.htm
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| | We have small green worms eating the leaves on our Boston ferns. I think it may be cutworms. Sevin Dust
doesn't seem to deter them at all. What else will kill them? Susan, Little River | | Hello, Susan in South Carolina: There are several different species of cutworms and they are hard to tell apart but in general there are a couple of different cutworms that attack ferns belonging to the Nephrolepis genus, such as the Boston ferns. The spotted and variegated cutworms are the most common caterpillars found on these ferns. They are typically black and gray in color and feed only at night. They remain below the soil surface during the day. They are named cutworms because of the way they feed on the plant foliage, and as a result it appears that the foliage has been cut in half. Control measures include hand-picking, which is quite effective but it has to be done while they are actively feeding during the dark hours. Sevin (Carbaryl) is labeled for caterpillars but it is most effective if it is applied to the base of the plant. Since these cutworms are active at night it is best to apply the insecticide during the evening hours, shortly before they emerge to feed. As with all insecticides, they are less effective as they are exposed to heat and light so the less time between the application and the feeding time the more effective they will be. So, if you have not applied the insecticide in this manner go ahead and try it again; if it does not seem to work you should take a sample of the worm to your local garden center or to your county Extension office to have it identified. The first step in controlling insects in the garden is having them properly identified. This way we know what we are dealing with and what options we have in terms of control. |
| | What causes the stem of a plumeria to be eaten away? Marv, El Cajon | | Hello, Marv: Plumeria is a tropical for those of us gardening in Kentucky but a perennial in your hardiness zone. It belongs to the same family as oleander and pachypodiums, all of which possess low levels of toxicity if ingested. That being said, most animals, especially wild ones, steer clear of toxic plants. Is the entire plant being chewed on or just a single stem? These tropicals are known for having a few pest problems, especially if they are not planted in an ideal location. Plants that are stressed are more susceptible to insect and disease problems. The longhorn borer is a grub of the longhorn beetle and lives inside the stem and eats the plant from the inside. You would notice black ooze on the stem if this were the culprit. Another possibility is the cutworm, which would be more common at the base of the plant. One last possibility is a slug or snail; with either one of these you would notice slime on the stem. For a positive diagnosis you can take a sample to your County Cooperative Extension Service. Your horticulture agent will be able to give you a definitive answer and suggestions in terms of control. |
| | What is the best way to get rid of moles? Sharon, Monticello | | Hi, Sharon: Moles can be a nuisance in the garden and in our lawns. We rarely see them because they live their entire lives underground. They create a network of tunnels that are both shallow and deep, depending on food availability as well as moisture and temperature of the soil. These solitary animals travel in constant search of food. They feed on earthworms, insects, and grubs. Trapping them is the best way to eliminate them from your property. The good news is that if the culprits you are dealing with truly are moles, they are not going to be abundant in numbers. Usually there are only three to five per acre. The most efficient way of getting rid of them is trapping them. First, you must find the tunnels that are currently active. To find out where the active tunnels are, walk on the raised surface so that it is no longer raised and watch for the next 24 hours for it to be disturbed. This way you will know where they are currently living and trapping will be much more successful. Traps are much easier to use on surface tunnels/burrows, and this time of year they are living closer to the surface so trapping them now will help keep population numbers down. For more specific information on trapping moles here in Kentucky, visit: www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/for/for42/for42.htm and www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/for/for42/for42.htm. |
| | What type of flower keeps bugs out of the garden? Angela, Middleburg | | Hello, Angela in Kentucky: Insect control can be a tough battle during the growing season. Knowing which insects are harmful and those that are actually helpful is the first step to preventing harmful infestations. There are some plants that can repel unwanted insects but there are also plants that attract beneficial insects. These beneficial insects prey on pests that can potentially harm our plants. I am not sure what you are trying to deter but here are a few suggestions: marigolds and nasturtium both repel Colorado potato beetles, which tend to be a problem with, of course, potatoes but also eggplant and tomatoes. Marigolds are good for deterring other beetles as well as aphids, which can affect a wide range of plants in the garden. Cornflowers attract ladybugs and beneficial wasps, citronella-scented geraniums repel mosquitoes, and garlic or chives are great for keeping unwanted insects out of the vegetable garden. Dill, fennel, and zinnias are all good for attracting beneficial insects, as well as borage and rue. In general, most herbs have repelling qualities because of their fragrance. Using plant material to deter harmful insects is a great alternative to potentially harmful sprays. Good cultural practices are essential for maintaining a healthy garden. Be sure to weed and keep your beds free of fallen plant litter. Good air circulation is also important for insect control. |
| | Will putting salt around my hosta bed for slug control hurt the plants? Judy, Sesser | | Hi, Judy: Slugs can do a lot of damage to our plants. Not to mention that there is no slimier feeling than “getting slugged” in the garden. I do not blame you for wanting to get rid of them, but using the salt method seems like a lot of work. First, you would have to go out during the middle of the night to find them and then the salt would have to be applied directly on the slugs. I would not sprinkle it or incorporate it into your soil because this can be detrimental to your plants. Other options include Diatomaceous Earth and Sluggo, which are both organic products you should be able to find at your local garden center. Home remedies include a shallow bowl of beer, and melons also work great. Leave the bowl of beer out at night while the slugs are feeding and in the morning you will find the culprits and be able to dispose of them. As for the melon, any kind will work; of course enjoy it first and then place the hollowed-out part face-down in the garden. Again, do this at night and the next morning you will have a melon full of slugs. |
| | Yesterday I sprayed my plants with soapy water and today they are all dying: they are very brown, limp, and all the leaves are falling off. How can I save all my plants? Tiffany, Orlando | | Hello, Tiffany in Florida: There is a difference between household soap, both bar and liquid, and insecticidal soap sold at garden centers. If you made your own mix of soap and water this can certainly damage any plant material it is sprayed on. Liquid soap is technically considered a detergent made of lye (potasium hydroxide) and animal fat and/or plant oils. Bar soap is made of lye (sodium hydroxide) and animal fat/plant oils. When sprayed on plant material, homemade soap mixes can break down the waxy protective coat and burn the foliage. From what you have described, it sounds like this is what might have happened. Unfortunately, the damage has been done and there is nothing that can be done to reverse the effects. In the future it is best to purchase brand-name insecticidal soaps from your garden center. These products are great organic options for insect control but best left up to the experts to make. I wish I had better news for you. |
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